As of version 2.0, PhobGCC PCBs come without trigger daughterboards. There is an official daughterboard design for PhobGCC triggers, which uses a star design for the two gold contact areas and comes as a pair that needs to be broken and trimmed apart.
This design, on the other hand, uses a very finely pitched opposite-side finger shape that minimizes the distance between the two contacts at every possible connection position, which makes for highly reliable button presses, even when pressing softly and at an angle.
These daughterboards come in pairs that are already separated and can be soldered to wires directly, without any need to be trimmed.
The default, finer side has a pitch of 0.127 mm while the other side has a 0.254 mm pitch and solder pads for mouse click switches (optional installation). Note that if you use the finer pitch side (as in being exposed and visible from above), after 6-12 months of usage, it can happen that carbon residue from the LR silicone dome (black cylinder that presses on the gold contacts) accumulates to a degree where L/R is registered as constantly held by the game. If this happens, you can easily fix the issue by wiping the gold contacts clean, for example with a Q-tip (easier if it's drenched in rubbing alcohol (ethanol) or isopropylic alcohol, but even a dry one does the job).
If you want to prevent this issue, better stick to the 0.254 mm pitch side by default and only go for the 0.127 mm side if you feel that some soft presses aren't picked up reliably.
The current version, 0.6, is optimized for mouse click switches, but also works reliably for regular silicone dome configurations. While some of the immersion gold tracks are left out, as the drill holes for easy mouse click switch alignment would break them, the total area where even light contact by the carbon pad of the silicone dome will successfully connect the two contacts is still much higher than on OEM GCC or PhobGCC 1.X paddles.
Unlike other trigger daughterboards, with this type (as of version 0.6 and later), you don't need to trim the two alignment feet of the mouse click switches. In fact, it's much better to keep them on the switch, as this makes alignment during soldering much easier.
The hole between the two solder points allows for the wires to be routed through that hole. This way, you can flip the daughterboard upside down from its default orientation without needing to solder or disconnect the wires from the mainboard. This can be useful in case the gold plating does eventually wear out, or in case of liquid spillage of some sort or accidentally scratching the gold plating while working on the controller.
I recommend using AWG 28 (outer wire diameter ~1.15 mm) stranded silicone wire for the connection between GCC mainboard and trigger daughterboards. PVC enamelled wire melts at typical soldering temperatures, which easily burns off too much of the insulation near the soldering joints and can cause shorts from twisting the wires.
2 Reviews Hide Reviews Show Reviews
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Trigger daughterboards
Currently using the 0.127mm side and they work perfectly (without mouseclick switches).
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0.254mm side
Working well, no complaints. Fits OEM rumble bracket perfectly. Seems responsive in game but need to do more testing to see if it's superior to OEM. At the very least, just as good. Build quality looks better too.