This add-on module makes your controller no longer have snapback. With 10 switches to set capacitance, 6 for the horizontal axis and 4 for vertical, you have a lot of fine control.
These modules are very compact and fit into the handles easily. For installing, you need a screwdriver to open the controller (sold separately) and a soldering station. Additional solder or flux is not strictly needed as the wires are pre-tinned with extra flux by me.
Installation time: ~7 minutes. Snapback adjustment time (when using SmashScope / oscilloscope): ~3 minutes.
1. Open the controller, take out the mainboard, remove the black rumble holder.
2. Solder the wires to the potentiometer pins as shown on the photo. Fine tweezers are recommended for this step.
3. Cut out space for the wires in the black rumble holder (shown in the photos).
4. Reinsert the rumble holder into the controller mainboard and move the wires into the cut out space in the rumble holder.
5. Insert the controller mainboard into the front shell again.
6. Remove the yellow protective layer of the sticky foam pad, ideally with fine tweezers, but it can also be done by hand.
7. Position the snapback module close to the black rumble holder, so that it fits into the space between there and the front shell handle, and press it against the controller mainboard firmly for 5 seconds.
8. Adjust capacitance: flipping switches up enables them, 1-6 are for the horizontal axis and 7-10 are for the vertical axis.
The more capacitance you activate (by flipping the switch up), the more you reduce snapback. For example, flipping up swtiches 3, 5 and 9 gives you .22+.47 = .69 uF for the horizontal axis and .47 uF for the vertical axis, which is the ideal amount most of the time (on new / lightly used controllers with default stick knobs).
B-stock: around 5-10% of the dip switches that I used have some of the 10 switches not always turn on properly when in up (on) position. I mark the affected numbers with red color; those will only turn on if the switch is pushed towards the on position very strongly, sometimes even pushing it down (towards the PCB, not towards the off position) is required for the switch to connect the two contacts. Ideally, you avoid turning on the affected positions completely. Usually the remaining switches are enough to get the capacitance you need added together.
B-stock modules have 1-4 switches marked in red color and are sold at a 50% discount.
Regular stock modules are tested for continuity by me and have been confirmed to have all 10 switches fully functional regardless of how strongly they are flipped to on position.
PCB type: lead-free, ENIG (gold-plated) for maximum durability and compliance with RoHS (Restriction of Hazardous Substances, such as lead).
Solder type: lead-free (RoHS compliant).
Wire type: silicone coated, more flexible and won't melt / cause toxic fumes during soldering, as 'normal' PVC wires do.
Ideal for Gamecube controllers produced in 2008 and newer (JP white, 2014 & 2018 Smash editions), as these are produced with lead-free solder. Also compatible with older controller editions from before 2008 though.
Designed for usage in Nintendo Gamecube controllers, but can also be installed to other controllers that use stick potentiometers.
PCB design and original idea by me (Kadano), PCBs produced and partially assembled by factory. Soldering of the 10x switch and the 4 wires (pre-tinned for easy soldering) as well as quality control done by me.
Additional instructions and details: https://sites.google.com/view/kadano-s2d
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To me this is the best capacitor module of this type offered from any modder. The build quality and amount of capacitance options (specifically for the Y-Axis) is greater than other comparable options from other sellers. And why wouldn't you support and buy from Kadano, a legend in the scene, veteran modder, and penultimate source of arcane technical/game knowledge. Fast shipping to the United States as well! Items were well packaged too. 5 stars.