Gamecube controller Z button switches: tactile / OEM

Various types of switches that can be used for the Z button in Gamecube controllers. Hosiden switches with black actuators are the only type found in unmodified stock Gamecube controllers. 

Hosiden switches with gray actuators are found only in Wii Classic Controllers and desoldered from there, thus their condition is lightly used.

For a comparison of the click resistances of the different switches, please refer to the comparison overview product photo or the table below.

Actuation force / click resistance: force needed to press the switch and make it register an input.

Return strength: force at which the switch unpresses. The closer this value is to the actuation force, the easier it is to short hop consistently. With relatively low return force, short hop is usually only consistent when using the "hot stove" method (briefly tapping the Z button and lifting your finger up again, as if tapping a hot stove). 

Life span: approximate number of inputs that the switch will work reliably. Typically, after about half the number of inputs (cycles) that the switch is rated for, the click resistance will have gone down by a noticeable amount, but only once the rated cycles are exhausted do inputs become inconsistent.

Form factor:
• The 4 OEM shape 4-pin types in the left of the overview photo don't require any modification to the switch or to the controller's front shell. The front 2 pins are only used for mechanical stability and don't carry an electrical signal.
• The 3 4-pin types in the right of the overview photo require modification of either the switch itself, the front shell or both in order to fit properly. In the case of PhobGCC 2.0 mainboards and most of its derivatives, there are solder pad holes for the two rear pins (only used for mechanical stability). When intending to solder these switches to OEM mainboards or Phob 1.X mainboards, the rear legs need to be bent with pliers in a certain way so that they can solder to the front pads. 
• The 2-pin type in the far right of the overview photo can be soldered directly, but will generally sit more far inside the controller, so that the Z button needs to be pressed further to actuate the switch. To shift the click point more forward, you can either attach rigid material to the back of the switch as a support against the wall in the front shell, or attach a micro screw to the cylindrical hole in OEM Z buttons to serve as an extension.